I ran across a post by Gina Spadafori over at PetConnection.com and it really hits home about the proper use of training collars. E-collars are a tool used in the training of your dog. Used properly, they are a marvelous tool. Here’s a couple of things  Gina had to say:

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No, I’m not training Faith with an e-collar. It’s there to remind her of what she knows, if she needs to be reminded.  She knows “here” perfectly well, and responds to it 99.99 percent of the time. But when we’re on the bridle trail, that’s not good enough. A failure to come when called .01 percent of the time on a bridle trail that’s 500 yards from a street could be deadly.

…But then, see, I am one of those people who believes an e-collar is a tool, not an instrument of torture

…I also believe that someone who uses a head halter and a reel-type leash — which I see all the freakin’ time and no one ever says a thing — is putting a dog at more risk of pain or injury than I ever have or ever will. Tools used incorrectly are dangerous, no matter now well-intentioned their design or intended use.

Read the whole post at http://www.petconnection.com/blog/2011/09/03/whats-your-favorite-post-of-all-time-also-the-e-collar-conundrum/comment-page-1/#comment-511979

Bottom line:
Train your dog! Use ALL training aids properly and safely!

Whew – glad I got that off my chest.

But here’s a tip that will make a big difference.

When you first start training with a correction collar, do a few “dry runs”. Simply put the collar on your dog without batteries installed and let him/her see the remote in your hand. Then push the button. Obviously nothing will happen since there are no batteries installed. That’s the key. Your dog will see that you:
A. Put the collar on him and
B. Do something with the remote and
C. Nothing happens.

That’s important. There is no association with the collar and the remote with tone or static correction. Since you have put the collar on numerous times and fiddled with the remote your dog has no reason to be concerned with those things.  You could even go for walks holding the remote. Where your dog is concerned , the remote can be as common as you putting your hat on.

Our dogs actually like having us put a collar on them because many times it means we are going for a ride. (That’s because we used to always put their prong collars on before a road trip.)  Stella will bow when we get any collar down, waiting for us to put the collar on her.

If you want to teach you dog to bow, just say “bow” when they are naturally doing it – stretching with front legs out and behind up in the air. Praise them for a good bow. After a while they will do it on command.

You are now the “stealth trainer”, with the secret to activating the training collar without your dog knowing where the correction is coming from… other than your command. Now, your dog associates the correction, tone or static, with disobeying a command – not with wearing the collar or seeing the remote in your hand.

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If you have a body harness, it can be used when you are training your dog not to pull and tug. It can also be used when you have to retrain your dog to stop pulling and tugging. Work with the dog so that they can accept and use the harness the same way it would use a collar on their neck.

If you are walking the dog, get a toy for them so that you can make them stay at your side. Treats can be used also but you have to make sure they only get a treat if they walk beside you. Continue to use the command heel and praise your dog when he gets it right. You can also use a training collar. This collar can be used if you are having problems training them not to pull and tug. Prong collars work well to keep the dog from pulling hard. And if the dog slowly gets ahead of you a quick gentle pop, accompanied by the command can get your dog back in proper position. Head collars, or “Halti” type collars work well too but you must be very careful not to hurt your dog’s neck when using this type of collar. Learn About Different Types of Dog Training Collars.

Regardless of which one you use, make sure that it fits correctly. It’s important that it’s not too big or too tight for them. A training collar should never, ever, injure a dog.

As you are walking with your dog, the leash should remain loose. If they pull ahead of you, change directions so that they will end up behind you. This should be done before it gets to the end of the leash. Do not allow the puppy or dog to pull you. While they are still young, they need to learn how to walk the right way.

As they get older and larger, it’s crucial that they are walking correctly. As you are correct him, do not yank or pull on their neck. Just make a gentle movement and they will respond. Using too much force can cause the dog to become agitated.

Chewing is natural, for puppies and grown dogs alike.  Dogs think that chewing is normal (and for them it is!).  However, it is not necessarily the right thing to do.  If your dog has problems with chewing on things he shouldn’t, you will need to correct the problem as soon as you notice it.

There are some dogs that will chew anything that they can get their teeth on.  That includes shoes, clothes and furniture.  Some will even chew rocks! Of course, these are things that you would rather them keep away from.  It’s not a good feeling to have to keep buying replacements. (Although you probably don’t buy replacement rocks.)

One of the easiest solutions to this problem is to get your dog a variety of dog toys that they can chew on.  Using these toys can teach them what they can chew on and what they cannot.  Plus, having a variety of dog toys for them to chew on will keep them occupied. It’s a good idea to have a variety of textures for them to choose from as well.

Chewing on the toys will also keep their teeth and gums healthy.  Some of the better choices for dog toys to chew on are ones that are scented or flavored.  Consistently encourage your dog to play with the toys.

Another thing you can do is teach them to get a toy every time they come in your presence.  Even if they greet someone else, still teach them to get one of their toys.

While you are training them, also teach them not to chew on items they are not supposed to be chewing on.  It is also important that the area where the dog plays is kept free of clutter.  For your part, make sure that there are no shoes or other items that can provoke them to start chewing on them.

If the dog should happen to get something that they’re not suppose to have, get their attention and remove it.  Then replace it with a dog toy.  Each time they do that, applaud them for doing the right thing.  If they take the allowable replacement, you can even give them a treat as a reward. You can also prevent them from not chewing your items by applying something that will make them step away from it, like bitter apple, cayenne pepper or tabasco sauce. I prefer the bitter apple because it works well and doesn’t burn the dog’s mouth like pepper or tabasco.

• Keep an eye on your dog all the time (especially puppies)
• Give your dog an alternate “OK thing” to chew on
• Praise your dog when he chews on the right thing
• Treat your dog when she chews on the right thing
• Use bitter apple on forbidden items

It may be cute in the puppy stage, but as they grow, it’s not cute anymore.  You have to start when you still have a puppy to get them to change their behavior regarding biting.

As a puppy, biting is a learned behavior that comes from their mother and additional litter.  Because they are not always with their mother, the human that takes care of them must be responsible for making the change.

While still in the puppy stage, allow the puppy to play with other puppies.  They like to interact with each other and sometimes that will include biting.  As they do this, they can learn to control themselves.

If there is one puppy that is overly aggressive, the others will get after the aggressive puppy for being too rough.  As they continue to play with each other, the puppy will learn to subside with the biting.

You can start very early while they are still a puppy when they are at least four to six weeks old.  Here are some tips that you can take to get an advantage:

• Let the puppy know that you hurt when they bit you.  You can be stern and say “no” or “ouch” to let the puppy know that it hurt you.  The puppy will know that they have gone too far and they will think about what they’ve done.

• Slowly take your hand away.  Doing this too fast can cause more damage.

• If they bite you again, repeat your verbal reaction.  Step away from the puppy for a while. They will realize that you don’t appreciate what they did and will figure out that you don’t want to be around them.

• Give them a toy to chew on.

• Reward the puppy when they are good and not biting you.

• Be consistent when you are training them to stop biting.  Continue to let the puppy know that bites are not acceptable.

• Your puppy should take an obedience class.  That way he can interact with other dogs as he gets older.  He will learn about limits with humans and other dogs.

• As your puppy gets older and grows into a dog, he needs lots of physical activity, including regular exercise.  Also, give them a chance to play outside so that he can get some fresh air.  Make sure he gets to walk and play fetch.  This can help them not think about biting.

• Keep them on a schedule with their physical activities.  They will get used to doing things and will come to enjoy doing them.

• Keep young children out of harm’s way by not leaving them alone with the puppy.  The puppy may still be in the learning stage and may bite the child.

• Refrain from aggressive behavior with them.  That can influence them to continue biting.

• If they continue to bite despite your best efforts, contact your veterinarian or a dog trainer for assistance.